Few people know Muscadet, but everyone should be drinking it for its affinity with seafood and its very reasonable price. The region, located in the western Loire Valley, features an unusual grape called melon de Bourgogne. Louis Métaireau was instrumental in restoring Muscadet's reputation in the 1960s. He was the first to begin leaving his wines sur lie (on their fine lees) through the winter, adding texture and nuance to the wines. Since taking over from her father, Marie-Luce Métaireau and her husband, Jean-François Guilbaud, have pieced together prime vineyard sites to create one of the most prized sites in all of Muscadet: the Grand Mouton vineyard. The 23-acre vineyard enjoys perfect exposure between the two famed rivers that lend their names to the AOC, and ranges in vine age from 30 years old to a parcel planted in 1937. The vines are tended organically, and everything is harvested by hand — a rarity in this region, where 98% of all grapes are machine-harvested, and conventional farming with chemicals is the norm. Marie-Luce makes four different cuvées, Petit Mouton from “young” vines (35 years old!); the Black Label that we are tasting, from slightly older vines and the most classic example of the terroir in the lineup, with more depth; the later harvested Grand Mouton; and Cuvée One, from the parcel planted in 1937. The black label is taut and bracing, with chalk, lime, and fleur de sel notes; nice zip and concentration; and flavors of lemon verbena, grapefruit rind, flowers, and minerals.